On this page I'm going to add photos of engines that I rebore, whenever I can remember to photograph them that is! Most of the time I'm too busy concentrating on the job at hand to spend time getting the camera out and take photos, but when I do I'll make sure to include them on this page. That way you can see the range of bore sizes my equipment can handle, and the different types of engine that I work on.

Jim's Honda CA50

These are some pictures of a Honda CA50 engine that I recently rebored. The engine has a standard bore size of 40mm (1.5748"). The customer supplied the new piston that was 0.5mm (0.020") oversize, and I had to bore and hone the engine to match the skirt diameter at 90 degrees to the gudgeon pin, plus 0.034mm - 0.038mm, which equates to (0.0013" - 0.0018"). The piston skirt size plus clearance as stated in the manual actually more or less tallies with standard size + 0.020". With the cylinder bored I honed it to match the size required, and used a feeler gauge of 0.0015" as my go/no go measure. 
In the last picture below you can see the 0.0015" feeler gauge inserted alongside the piston at the inlet side, as stated in the manual for the machine. As you can see, it went in, but was not loose, and the piston didn't slide down the barrel as it would have done if I'd honed it any larger.

Mick's Lotus Elan

Some stills of the Lotus Elan I rebored in the chassis a few months ago. This engine has a standard bore size of 82.5mm (3.250"). There are more pics of this engine on the 'In Situ' page. Here's a link to a short video of the engine being rebored.
1. In the first pic you can see the damage to the side of the no. 3 cylinder even at 0.060" oversize. 
2. In the second pic you can see what the engine looked like after I'd resleeved no. 3 cylinder, and then bored all cylinders out to a matching size of 0.020" oversize. 
3. In the third pic you can see the finished block, with all cylinders honed out to the correct size and finish.

Bob's Honda CG125

These are a few pics of a Honda CG125 engine I rebored for a customer. The standard bore size of this engine is 56.5mm (2.2244"). I've included these pics specifically because there was a problem with the cylinder. If you look closely at the pics you can see that about an inch down from the top of the steel liner there is a horizontal mark that shows as brighter, shinier, and from some angles, darker than the rest of the bore. 
This marking is caused by porous imperfections in the original casting of the steel liner. Nothing can be done about them other than to try to bore them out and reach better metal beneath. I had to bore the cylinder to 1mm (0.040"oversize) in order to clear the porosity on this barrel, but I'm happy to say it did clear at that oversize.
1. In the first pic you can see what the porosity looked like at .5mm (0.020") oversize
2. In the second pic you can see what it looked like at .75mm (0.030") oversize
3. In the last pic you can see that the porosity had almost entirely gone at 0.99mm (0.0389") oversize, and by the time I'd honed the cylinder to the exact 1mm (0.0394") it was impossible to see. (Sadly I forgot to take any pics of the barrel once I'd honed it. Doh!)

Piotr's Toyota Supra

These pics are of a 3 ltr straight six Toyota Supra I recently rebored in the chassis. The standard bore size of this engine is 83mm (3.2677"). In the pics you can see some of the work I had to do in order to overcome damage in no. 4 cylinder. 
1. In the first pic you can see that the no. 4 cylinder is a different colour from the others, indicating there was a problem. 
2. In the second pic you can see more clearly the scoring in that cylinder. (no. 4 piston had two broken rings and the land between the two rings had also broken away from the main part of the piston)
3. In the third pic you can see that the cylinder cleaned at 1mm (0.040") oversize.
4. In the fourth pic you can see what all the cylinders looked like once rebored and honed to size.
Here's a link to a short video showing the block being rebored.

KEvin's Kubota

Below are some pictures of a rebore in the chassis I did recently on a Kubota digger. It's powered by a three cylinder diesel engine, and I was able to bore it in situ due to the positioning of the engine across the back of the machine.

As you can see from the pictures, clearance was a bit tight against the back of the cab, but nothing a lump hammer to the cab rear metal sheeting couldn't cure (applied by the owner I might add). Anyway, not only was it tight against the back of the cab, but there were other things very close to the top of the engine as well which made boring it less than ideal. However, with a little help from Kevin, we managed to clear all the obstructions and I was able to successfully bore and hone the engine.

You may notice that in the first of the barrel pictures you can see an area that didn't clean up from boring on one of the end cylinders. Unfortunately +0.020" was the only oversize available for this engine, so if it didn't clean it would have to remain as it was. Luckily I was able to clean most of the wear during the honing process, but I also had to use a riffler file to take out what was left of the wear ridge after boring and honing were complete, so that when the new piston and its rings are fitted, the new top ring wouldn't get damaged by coming up against the underside of the wear ridge in the bore.

The second barrels picture shows the centre barrel after being bored, but before being honed, and this one cleaned up very well indeed.

The last barrels picture shows that I was successful in clearing the wear ridge from the top of the nearest end cylinder by the time I'd finished the job.

Martin's MZ 250's

Today I used the old Buma boring bar to rebore a pair of MZ 250 barrels. One was standard (clean fins) and had to be bored to first oversize, and the other was already at first oversize (corroded fins) and had to be bored to second oversize.

I had to use the Buma because the finning on the barrels is so big that neither of them would fit in the Van Norman boring jig. Below are a couple of pictures of one of the barrels being fitted in the jig, and then of it being bored with the Buma. Then there's a picture of the second barrel (corroded fins) so that you can see just how big the finning on this engine is.

Dan's Land rover

A few photos of Dan's 2.25ltr petrol Land Rover l that I rebored in situ. It was due to rain in the afternoon at 2pm according to my weather forecasting software, so we had to hurry along a bit, but I managed to get all the cylinders bored and honed to size before the rain arrived at 13.56! Four minutes early damn it! Four minutes later and I'd have completely finished the job, but as it was the rain arrived in bucketloads and caught me out while I was giving each of the four cylinders a polishing hone with the fine stones after taking them out to size with the coarse ones.

I bored the engine out from standard to + 0.020", by which size the wear ridge had cleaned on all four cylinders, so it was all pretty straightforward and it only needed one cut per cylinder.

As I said above, I'd polished two of the bores and only had nos. 3 and 4 to polish in order to be completely finished, but the rain came and stopped play for around half an hour. Then as soon as it stopped I ran out from Dan's house to get the hone into the rear two cylinders and polish them quickly before the rain came back again.

In the last two photos you can clearly see where we'd been caught out by the sudden downpour while I was polishing the cylinders and we'd had to quickly try to cover the engine before running indoors. Sadly we weren't quite quick enough, so when we came back out again there was quite a lot of water around the engine bay.

Robin's 1930 Sunbeam saloon

The pics below are of a 1930, 6 cylinder Sunbeam saloon I rebored in situ up near Melton Mowbray recently. The engine was in good condition, as was the car, and you can see from the pics that the owner takes good care of this rare veteran of the roads. The rebore itself was straightforward although there were vertical grooves in no. 3 cylinder from where the gudgeon pin had come loose and moved from side to side in the piston until it came in contact with the cylinder wall.

The only pistons available that were anything like the originals were a set of Hepolite +.060" pistons from a BMC 1800. These had the right height above the gudgeon pin for the engine, however, they had to have the gudgeon pin holes resized to match the Sunbeam gudgeon pins before they could be used, and the company that did all the work on the car (RH Classics) had to have the pistons altered at a specialist workshop before I could do the rebore.

The engine had already been fitted with a set of the same pistons at +.020" oversize, so I knew that I'd have to take out another .040" per cylinder, which would mean doing 2 cuts per cylinder, and this I did. After which I spent some time honing out the last .001" or so in order to get the correct piston skirt clearance of between .0018" and .0024". As it was I erred on the smaller side, and honed the cylinders to piston skirt + .002".

The last picture below shows the cylinders all bored and honed to match the new pistons.

Mark's boat

Mark's 40ft cruiser is powered by two 6 litre Cummins 6 cylinder diesel engines. I had to go to Poole in order to bore the cylinders out ready for the fitting of thin wall liners as the left hand engine was in poor condition. The position of the engine under the cabin floor meant there were some extra things to think about with this job, but eventually I finished boring and honing the cylinders out to liner size - 0.002", and the liner fitting can now go ahead.

NOTE: In the second picture you can't see much of the block in the cabin, but if you click on the picture it will expand and you can see much more clearly the position of the engine under the cabin floor.

alan's fordson dexta tractor

Alan's Fordson Dexta tractor is fitted with a three cylinder Perkins diesel engine. I had to go to Tetbury in order to bore this engine out after new liners had been fitted. Due to problems with fitting the liners, the engine had two thick wall liners and one thin wall liner fitted when I got there. So I proceeded to take out over 100 thou from each of the two thick wall liners to match the thin wall liner. I had to do this using three cuts per cylinder, and then take another cut each to get all three of them out to the minimum finished size, which in this case was 3.600". With the boring done I then had to climb onto the top of the block and hone out each cylinder to impart the cross hatch finish, and by the time I'd finished, each barrel was sized at 3.6006", i.e. just over half way between the minimum size of 3.600" and the maximum size of 3.601".

As the three cylinder block is quite short I decided to bore out the centre cylinder first, and as you can see in the third picture below, the back end of the boring bar was hanging off the block. However, it was well clamped into place, and did not move during the multiple cut boring process.

You can clearly see some of the smoke that came from the liners when I took the first cut. This is due to the waxy/greasy substance the liners are coated in at the factory to prevent any corrosion during storage.

The nice thing about the engine was that being part of a tractor, the whole front end of it was removable, which gave me very good access to get the boring bar on and off.  In picture number five (bottom row centre), the other side of the engine you can just see the top of my B & D Workmate that I use as a mobile workbench, and which also came in handy as a step ladder in order to allow me to climb up onto the top of the block for honing. 

Here's a link to a short video Alan sent me of the engine running after reassembly.

Frank's 1933 Triumph ND550

I recently had to rebore a 1933 Triumph ND550 single cylinder side valve motorcycle engine. The interesting thing about it was the fact that it's what's known as a 'blind end' cylinder. This means the cylinder and the cylinder head have all been cast as one unit, so there's no separate cylinder head that can be removed. The problem this caused was that the cutter I used had to be shaped to cut at or below the bottom of the boring head, which is at the bottom of the boring bar. If I didn't do that then there's a strong chance the boring head could hit the head part of the casting before the cutter's reached the bottom of the barrel.

Luckily I happened to have a cutter that I was able to modify to do the job, and so I set up the barrel in the jig and proceeded to do the rebore.

The reason the barrel needed reboring was because one of the circlips had come adrift and the gudgeon pin had moved sideways out of the piston and started gouging a pair of grooves along the cylinder wall, inline with the side where the two valves are fitted. The barrel had already been bored out to + 0.020" oversize so in order to clean the grooves it had to go to + 0.060" oversize, which is the maximum oversize piston available for this engine, and most others for that matter. With only 0.040" overall available to clean the gouges I had just 0.020" per side to play with.

I set up the barrel in the jig with the grooves toward the back of the jig,  and clamped it into place. I then centred the boring bar over the barrel, but offset it by 0.005" toward the grooves. Then I bored it out taking small cuts each time, and after each cut I reset the boring bar to being 0.005" offset once more. By doing this I was able to more or less eliminate the grooves altogether, although, if you look closely at the last two pictures below you can see a very tiny black line about half way along the barrel on the right in the first picture. In the second/last picture I've ringed it in red to make it easier to see.

Success! The customer was pleased and so was I, as I didn't think it would clean within the limits set by the available oversized piston. Let's just hope a circlip doesn't come loose again or next time the barrel will have to be bored out and sleeved back to standard!

Richard's Bentley

I recently rebored a 1953 Bentley in the chassis for a gentleman who has a collection of these wonderful vehicles. The job wasn't too onerous, however, due to the car having aluminium front wings, we (the owner, the mechanic, and I) couldn't put any weight on them. So we had to use an engine crane to lift my boring bar over the grill and onto the engine block. Once there everything proceeded as expected, and although the job took several hours, nevertheless, it was a pleasure to work on such a beautiful car, with such a nicely thought out engine.

One interesting thing about the Bentley engine was the fact that it was designed to have overhead inlet valves and side exhaust valves. You can see the open exhaust ports where the valves have been removed for the rebore alongside the cylinders. One for each cylinder.

This is similar in design to the original Land Rover engines that also used a one up one down design. However, the Land Rover engine was made with an angled top to the engine block, so I can't rebore those. Thankfully Bentley chose to design their engines with a flat top to the engine block, so I was able to rebore this engine.